Sunday Best
23 October, 2024Hospitable inns with fabulous food, mouth-watering ales and a great chance to walk it all off in some sumptuous surrounds what could be better than Sunday lunch in the Surrey Hills?
Foodie and writer Richard Davies selects his favourite spots taking in to account the location, food, drink and ambience. Although he says: “Honestly, you can’t go wrong with any of these...”
The Duke of Wellington, East Horsley
Once owned by the Earl of Lovelace, whose wife Ada (Lord Byron’s daughter) is widely held to have invented the first computer algorithm. It’s an architectural gem of flint and terracotta, designed by Sir Charles Barry, principal architect of the Houses of Parliament. After a Halloumi fries starter, we opted for the Aubrey Allen’s dry-aged rump of beef—which came perfectly pink, as requested—and the special lamb kleftiko in red wine, which was succulent without being too rich. Both meals were served with roast parsnip and carrot spears, buttery leek and cabbage, roast potatoes, Yorkshire pudding and our own jug of gravy.
Part of the superb Peach chain (which also includes The Drummond, Albury and The Richard Onslow, Cranleigh), the pub boasts a well-conceived menu with a good selection of vegetarian options. Portion sizes are generous, while the service is speedy from friendly staff who look after you without being intrusive.
The Cyder House Inn, Shackleford
Less than five minutes from the A3 Hurtmore exit lies the charming rural village of Shackleford. As befits the name, there’s a huge range of ciders available, as well as a long list of mainly local guest ales.
Those I sampled were exceptionally well kept. The impressively varied menu includes interesting Asian and South African influences and a good range of veggie options. We chose the striploin of beef and a roast beef and pork duo, both served with garlic and rosemary roast potatoes, giant crispy Yorkshire puddings, seasonal veg and unlimited gravy. The beef was lean and perfectly medium rare, the pork delicious...
The Victoria, Oxshott
Already with a longstanding reputation for great food, the Victoria Oxshott has, under its new owners, stepped boldly into gastropub territory. The Sunday lunch menu, curated by Culinary Director Matt Larcombe – previously head chef for Hester Blumenthal at The Crown in Bray – proved the perfect example of how to offer enough, but not too much, choice.
After a cheeky plate of oysters with our drinks, we ordered the Herdwick lamb leg and the Cumbrian saddleback pork belly, both served with seasonal vegetables, triple cooked roast potatoes and a Yorkshire pudding. The lamb was perfectly pink and tender, while the pork was a good, thick, tasty portion. Roast potatoes were crisp, fluffy and freshly cooked. Cauliflower cheese and extra gravy came without asking.
As far as pub food goes, the Victoria is as close to fine dining as it gets, and – kudos to Head of Hospitality Simon King (formerly of the Ramsay group and The Fat Duck in Bray) – the interior is an Instagrammer’s delight. Of course, this quality comes at a premium and ale lovers may feel that the emphasis is now more ‘gastro’ than ‘pub’.
The White Horse, Hascombe
The White Horse is that most precious thing: a real pub serving great food – and in one of the prettiest villages in the Surrey Hills. It has recently joined the Young’s stable and the Ordinary bitter was the best I’ve tasted in a while.
Manager Ed Kenny is proud to run “an accessible village pub that enjoys fantastic local support”. There’s a real sense of ambition here, with plans to introduce the inn’s own dry-aged meat and more locally sourced produce. Moreover, along with a dedicated bar area, there’s a wonderful garden in which to while away a summer’s afternoon. Whole roasted pheasant was available on the day we visited, but we chose the cider-braised pork belly and special lamb shank. Both the lamb and pork were perfectly cooked and well-presented, with tasty gravy, and the Yorkshires were spot on!